After almost 8 months of living in Spain, I’ve finally taken my first trip off the mainland. (Yes — in case you didn’t know, Spain has lots of islands!) During Semana Santa, or Holy Week, my friend Morgan came to visit and we went to Valencia and Palma de Mallorca. Palma is the largest city on Spain’s largest island, Mallorca, also known as “Majorca” in English.
We spent about two full days there, and even though I’ve visited 10+ other cities in Spain, Palma was very different than anywhere else I’ve been. Here are some important things to know if you’re planning a visit yourself!
1. It’s a Tourist Destination™
I’ve heard about places like this before. In one of the best books I’ve read about Spain – Ghosts of Spain by Giles Tremlett — he talks about the phenomenon that is the city of Benidorm. Located to the south of the Valencian province, you’re more likely to hear English being spoken than Spanish; 10% of the population is British and it’s a popular holiday destination for British and German tourists. Palma was very much the same. Every menu and every sign is in four languages: Spanish, Catalán, English, and German. Irish pubs and groups of British women celebrating Bachelorette parties abound. I heard almost no Spanish being spoken.
Even though I was also enjoying a vacation, I felt a little frustrated at the other tourists who would communicate with the wait staff, for example, and not even make an attempt to say “por favor” or “gracias.” Although all the staff we interacted with was capable of speaking good English, I got the sense that they were relieved to speak Spanish with me. In some ways, I almost didn’t feel like I was in Spain. The whole town was just so international that I felt like it ceased to be Spain.
2. It’s more expensive than the mainland
Maybe because it’s an island, or maybe it’s because it’s so popular with vacationers, but prices are higher in Palma. Even my friend Morgan noticed it after we spent the days prior in Madrid and Valencia. From food and drink to clothes and other accessories, expect to pay more here than you might elsewhere in Spain. That’s not to say the prices might not be worth it, though! I think our favorite meal was at a tapas restaurant called Tast. It was maybe a little more expensive than what I’d pay for in Madrid, but the food was really really good. Just watch out for the tourist traps – higher prices and lower quality.
3. There is no Uber
Get ready to navigate public transportation or take a taxi, because there is no Uber in Palma or the island of Mallorca. That felt a little unfortunate at first, but we were lucky that our Airbnb host offered to pick us up from/drop us off at the airport. The other slightly difficult thing was that Citymapper, my favorite travel app, isn’t in Palma. (Which kinda makes sense since it’s only for really big cities.) When we realized that our Airbnb was a little outside the center, we had to decide the best way to get around. Our feet were a little tired after 3-4 days in a row of walking 10 miles, so we got creative. We decided to rent electric scooters. You can also rent bikes or Vespas to get around!
4. Check out the beach map
When we booked our Airbnb, it promoted itself as being a 10-minute walk from the beach. I didn’t realize at the time how much of a luxury that was! Looking at the map of Palma after arriving, I was surprised to see that pretty much all of the beaches were clustered away from the city center. There was the one near us – Can Pere Antoni – that was probably the closest one to the center but still required a 20-30 minute walk into town. Almost all of the other ones are much farther, on the other side of the port. If you want to spend time at the beach as well as the city, just make sure you plan ahead so you’re in a convenient location to do both. Especially since there is no Uber.
5. It’s a beautiful place you should definitely visit if you can
So maybe it doesn’t always feel like it’s Spain, but it does feel like a beautiful Mediterranean island. And how can you be unhappy with that? The La Seu Cathedral is a highlight – as you walk or bike or scoot your way along the waterfront, you get amazing views of the outside, surrounded by palm trees with a mountain backdrop. The cathedral is all pinnacles and flying buttresses, in typical Gothic style, but it definitely gives off some island vibes in my opinion. Go inside if you can! We weren’t able to since it was Holy Thursday and they were preparing for the evening’s procesiones, but it gives me a reason to go back!
To the west of the city center, there’s an old castle, Castell de Bellver. It’s a bit of a hike up to the top, but the views on the way are also really beautiful. And of course, you can’t miss the quaint little Plaça Major with its yellow walls, green shutters, and lively atmosphere. We had a lot of fun in Palma. It was a great place to relax and enjoy an atmosphere that’s totally different than in my everyday life. So I would recommend it! Just, please… don’t play into the stereotypes of English-speaking tourists abroad. 🙂
Find more things to do in Palma de Mallorca.
Have you ever heard of Palma de Mallorca or thought about visiting? Let me know in the comments!
-Cathy
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Originally Published on April 29, 2019.
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