Parque del Buen Retiro — or just “El Retiro” — is Madrid’s version of Central Park. Located in the southeast of the city center, this 350-acre park is one of Madrid’s must-sees. No matter what time of day you visit, you’ll see families, couples, friends, and individuals enjoying a retreat (in Spanish: retiro) from the city hustle in Retiro Park.
During two years living in Madrid, Retiro Park is one of the places I went back to again and again. Maybe it’s because the greenery felt like an oasis in the big city, or maybe it’s because I loved trying to get lost wandering down new paths. Either way, there’s no shortage things to do, and it’s worth a visit for anyone who passes through Madrid.
Here are the top 5 things to do in El Retiro.
1. Pack a picnic
During my first three weekends in Madrid, and I had no less than three picnics in the park. It’s easy to pack a blanket — or a towel, or anything you can sit on — a bocadillo, some fruit, and a bottle of wine or two, and find a place to sprawl out in the grass. There are plenty of trees to shade you from the sun, or you can work on your tan. There are also patches of grass surrounded by hedges if you want a little more privacy. Even if you’re by yourself, no one will look at you strangely for being alone.
One of my favorite things to do was head to the park and spend a few lazy hours underneath a tree with a book, a giant hunk of cheese, and a juice box. (I’m very #cultured, I know.)
2. Rent a paddleboat
Since Retiro Park used to belong to the monarchy, the park is full of monuments, sculptures, and fountains. In the middle of the park, you’ll find the Alfonso XII monument looming over El Retiro’s largest lake. On any given day — and especially on Sundays, when the park is at its busiest — you’ll see groups of people out on the lake in boats. It may seem like a “touristy” thing to do, but don’t let that stop you!
For only €6 on weekdays or €8 on weekends, you and up to three friends can spend 45 minutes paddling around the lake. I finally tried it out with my best friend, Hanna, when she came to visit, and we had so much fun that we couldn’t stop laughing. Probably because we weren’t actually very good at rowing.
3. Enjoy the art, sculptures, and fountains
Not only does the Crystal Palace in Retiro Park typically have some sort of temporary art exhibition inside, but the park itself is absolutely packed full of sculptures and monuments. Some of the them are famous, like the “Fallen Angel” statue, while others seem a little bit more random — like the “Monument to Cuba.” But either way, you could stay busy for ours exploring all of the art, sculptures, fountains, and monuments the park has to offer.
4. Visit the Library
While this is one thing I haven’t done, it’s on my list — to visit the Biblioteca Pública Municipal Eugenio Trías, or public library, inside the Retiro Park! Located in the Casa de Fieras part of the park, which was formerly a zoo, the library is nearly 4000 square meters spread over two floors. With all the good stuff that libraries offer, like reading rooms and Wi-Fi, it’s worth a visit — and of course, it’s free!
5. Be active!
Every time I step into El Retiro, its maze-like structure overwhelms me again. There are miles and miles of trails crisscrossing and zigzagging through the park; more often than not, these trails are filled with people exercising in some form or another. Of course, you’ve got your walkers and joggers… but you’ve also got bikers, rollerbladers, skateboarders, scooters, go-karts, and segways.
While I’d rather play sports or go to a workout class, everyone exercising in the Retiro is very inspiring! And honestly, if I liked running, there’s nowhere else in Madrid I’d rather do it.
Find more things to do in Madrid.
Have you ever visited Retiro Park? What are your favorite things to do there? Let me know in the comments!
-Cathy
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Originally Published on October 11, 2018.
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