Author’s Note: I originally wrote this post about what to do in Sevilla in early March 2020 before the coronavirus pandemic took over the world. I’m slowly transitioning back into travel-related content, so here we go!
A couple of weeks ago, my mom came to visit!! Since she’d already seen the highlights of Madrid when she came to visit me last summer, we decided to take a long weekend trip down to Sevilla in the south of Spain. Even though it was the end of February, we were nice and warm in sunny Andalucía!
It had been nearly 4 years since my first visit to Sevilla, so I was really excited to go back. After living in Spain for almost 2 years, I feel like I’ve got a lot more context for Spanish culture and history now – plus more experiences with other cities throughout the country. That helps me to develop my understanding of Sevilla better than I could before.
I definitely think Sevilla is one of those cities that tourists to Spain should visit – it feels a lot more “Spanish” than some of the other big cities, like Madrid and Barcelona. Plus, the weather is amazing. What’s not to like?! So… here are the things you should do in Sevilla!
1. Visit Plaza de España
If you’ve ever looked at photos of Spain, the above images might be familiar to you. And while most cities in Spain have a “Plaza de España,” this is the most magnificent plaza in the whole country in my opinion. When I visited Sevilla’s Plaza de España for the first time in 2016, I sent my parents a panoramic video from my viewpoint in the center of the square. As we planned my mom’s visit to Spain, she remembered that video – the clomping of the horse-drawn carriages, the spray from the towering fountain, the extravagant mixture of architecture on display.
Although it may seem like a palace of some sort at first glance, it was originally built in 1928 for a world’s fair held in Sevilla. The buildings that surround the half-circle plaza are mostly government offices today. In addition to the impressive architecture – a blend of renaissance, neo-baroque, and neo-mudéjar styles – the plaza features a moat and four bridges. Each bridge is meant to represent one of the four original kingdoms of Spain: Castilla, León, Aragón, and Navarra.
One of my favorite parts of Plaza de España is the Provincial Alcoves. Each of Spain’s provinces is represented by one of the 48 brightly-colored tiled alcoves next to the plaza’s walls. It’s a great place to get a picture with your favorite province!
2. Tour the Alcázar
The Alcázar de Sevilla is one of the most impressive places that I’ve ever visited in Spain. And its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site speaks for itself. The Alcázar is a shining example of Spain’s – especially southern Spain’s – mixed religious and cultural history. In case you’re not familiar, medieval Spain had a pattern of converting Moorish mosques and fortresses into Christian churches and palaces. So while you can certainly find the same concept everywhere from Zaragoza to… right across the street from the Alcázar (more on that later)… the Alcázar personifies that history.
The Alcázar is so big that you should plan several hours for your visit. Even if you decide to go through independently, rather than with a guide, there’s so much to see. The first time I visited, I decided not to use a guide. It was a last-minute decision to go inside, and I felt that I knew enough about Spanish history. But this time, I decided to book a guided tour for me and my mom. It’s been a long time since my university Spanish history and culture classes, and I thought my mom might appreciate the context too. We had a really nice small group tour with about 10 people, which was perfect. Make sure you don’t miss the stunning royal gardens!
Fun fact: The Alcázar was a filming location for Season 5 of Game of Thrones!
3. Explore the Cathedral and La Giralda
Right across the street from the Alcázar is the Catedral de Sevilla, the city’s most important cathedral. And more than that: it’s the third-largest church in the world. When visiting the interior, it’s impossible not to be struck by the hugely extravagant display of opulence. I don’t think I’d ever seen more gold in one place than was there at the altar. Additionally, the cathedral is the resting place of the problematic-yet-widely-worshipped Christopher Columbus. His tomb is elevated on the shoulders of four figures representing – once again – the four original kingdoms of Spain.
La Giralda is the cathedral’s bell tower. Previously, it was the minaret of the Muslim mosque that once stood where the cathedral is now. (Remember what we talked about before?) Having been to Morocco, it helps explain the bell tower’s style; it’s much more conventionally reminiscent of what I saw in Fez compared to what I’ve seen from other cathedrals. If you want a nice view of the city from above, you can climb La Giralda… it’s 19 stories to the top!
4. See an Authentic Flamenco Show
Video is from my first visit to Sevilla. This time, my mom and I went to La Casa del Flamenco.
When you think of Spain, do you think of flamenco dancers? While flamenco is from Spain, it’s specifically from Sevilla. Like… I wouldn’t necessarily want to watch a flamenco show in Madrid or Barcelona, or anywhere outside Andalucía really, although they’re easy enough to find. Because honestly, flamenco has been largely commercialized into a tourist attraction in most places. Despite this, I still think it’s worth seeing a show. But if you’re going to do it – and you want to have the most authentic experience possible – why not at least see it in the city where it all began?
A short history of flamenco: Although the history of flamenco is not entirely clear, it likely originated around the 8th century with a mixture of cultures. Different immigrant groups on the southern Iberian peninsula began to adapt the folk dances and music they encountered to become their own. Since these groups were often persecuted due to religious or ethnic differences, it created an underground culture where these dances and music – which would later become flamenco – could thrive.
For this reason, flamenco was looked down upon by higher classes in Spanish society. And it remained this way, more or less, until the Francisco Franco years of the mid-20th century. During his dictatorship, flamenco was transformed into propaganda; it was an artistic and cultural tool to bolster Spain’s tourism and provide a national identity. The effects of this can still be seen today, although there’s now a special focus on the study of flamenco and preservation of the art form.
5. Take Photos at Las Setas de Sevilla
“Seta” means mushroom in Spanish, so you might be a little confused what this is all about. Las Setas de Sevilla, also known by their “official” name Metropol Parasol, has become an icon of the city since its completion in 2011. It was designed to be a gigantic sunshade, which makes sense when you consider the hot, hot summers in Andalucía. Its curving, honeycomb-like structure – which, yes, resembles huge mushrooms – is made entirely of wood and is thought to be the largest all-wood structure in the world.
Its construction divided public opinion at the time, but there’s no denying that the Setas make an interesting place to visit on your Sevilla trip. Here, you can also find a food market, various cafes and tapas bars, and an open-air space for events. Plus, you get great views of the city from the top! It does cost €5 to go up to the top, but I personally thought it was worth it.
We had such a good time in Sevilla, and I think I loved it even more than the first time I went!
Learn about the best neighborhoods to stay in during your visit to Sevilla.
Have you ever been to Sevilla? What are your favorite things to do and see there? Let me know in the comments!
-Cathy
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Originally Published on August 11, 2020.
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