After a year in Spain and visits to many different regions, I’ve finally made it up north! At the end of last week, we had a few days off from school, so I took advantage of the time to travel. I’ve always heard from others that País Vasco — Basque Country — was different from the other parts of Spain that I’m used to, so I was really excited to visit. I based my trip in the largest Basque city, Bilbao, with an overnight detour to San Sebastián. More on that later!
So after my time in Bilbao, here are 7 things you have to do when you visit!
1. Learn Some Euskara
This might not be common knowledge — I had no idea until one of my Spanish culture classes during college. But País Vasco, which is one of Spain’s 17 autonomous communities, has its own language. In the Basque language it’s called Euskara. Interestingly, when it comes to linguistics, it’s a language isolate, which means it doesn’t have any discernible relationship to any other other living languages. “Basque Country” often refers to more than just the Spanish community; historically, it includes southwest France.
Euskara looks very different from Spanish. With lots of K’s, X’s, and Z’s, it looks harsh but somehow sounds soft. Luckily, everyone in País Vasco also speaks Spanish, so I had no problem. Pretty much every sign is in Euskara and Spanish at a minimum, and occasionally in English as well (like at the airport). But after a few days, you might get used to seeing or hearing some of these words:
- Kaixo = Hello
- Agur = Goodbye
- Eskerrik asko = Thank you
- Sarrera = Entrance
- Irteera = Exit
- Bai = Yes
- Ez = No
- Ur = water
2. Visit the Guggenheim
When you think of the Guggenheim, do you think of New York City? Well, you’re not wrong, but Bilbao has the other Guggenheim. And it’s the city’s crown jewel. Bilbao is in a valley, surrounded by lush green hills, and the Guggenheim sits perched on the edge of the city, right next to the Nervión River. If you come in from the airport, the museum’s metallic silhouette is one of the very first things you see.
Outside the museum, you can check out some of the Guggenheim’s most recognizable sculptures — bronze spider Mamen, tower of silver spheres Tall Tree and the Eye, and the floral Puppy. No ticket purchase necessary. But if you decide you want to visit the museum, you can buy tickets online, or head to the south side of the building for the entrance. The Guggenheim hosts permanent collections as well as visiting exhibits, so if you’re interested in art or culture, I recommend spending a few hours inside.
3. Wander the Casco Viejo
Many Spanish cities have an “old part” of town, and Bilbao is no different. A 25-minute walk southeast along the river will take you to Casco Viejo. You’ll find a maze of old buildings, many with traditional façades, and lots of interesting shops to wander in and out of.
You never know what you’ll come across — I was there on Halloween and found a street, Calle Carnicería Vieja, that decided to turn itself into Diagon Alley for the evening’s festivities. Oh, and the Catedral de Santiago is hiding in the Casco Viejo as well. The streets are so narrow that you won’t even realize it’s there… until you’re there.
4. People-Watch at Plaza Nueva
Plaza Nueva is one of the hidden parts of Casco Viejo. However, it’s pretty new, especially considering its surroundings. It was only built in the mid-1800s, so in Spain years, it’s basically still a newborn. There were lots of families, friends, and couples enjoying the afternoon in the plaza. Its perimeter is lined with bars and cafes which provide shelter from the rain — yeah, it was raining when I was there. Apparently it even has a market on Sundays!
5. Eat Pintxos
While much of Spain is known for tapas, País Vasco is known for pintxos. Pintxos are kind of like a Basque version of tapas. There are a few differences, though. First, you pretty much always pay for pintxos, while tapas are sometimes free depending on the region of Spain you’re in. Second, pintxos are generally a small slice of bread with something “pinchado” — skewered — to it with a toothpick.
Pintxos are a huge part of the Basque culture. If you’re in the Casco Viejo area, walk a little bit to find the Mercado de la Ribera. It’s the largest covered market in Europe, with two parts. One part hosts typical farmers products, while the other part is a trendy food hall, offering all the pintxos you could ever desire.
6. Walk Across Bridges
So we’ve talked about the river, but we haven’t talked much about the bridges. Bilbao has a LOT of bridges. When I think of cities I’ve visited with bridges, London is the only other one that comes to mind as far as bridge volume. I’d say I probably walked across at least five, and I wasn’t seeking them out or anything like that. The city just spans two sides of the river.
A lot of them are pretty interesting-looking, like Puente de La Salve near the Guggenheim, and Zubizuri near Casco Viejo. Be ready to walk up some stairs, though!
7. Indulge Your Sweet Tooth
Bilbao seemed to have a particularly excellent pastry culture. If you know me, you know I believe in eating dessert at least once a day on vacation, and Bilbao was a good place for this. I found a lot of specialty cafes and bakeries for cake and coffee, with more ease than I do in Madrid. (Many of them even had Wi-Fi!) Try a slice of Basque cheesecake or a pastel vasco… but don’t stop there.
Okay, I think I covered most of the essentials in Bilbao! Even though the weather was a bit wet, I’d love to go back and explore more of the area since it’s geographically so different from the rest of Spain.
What are your favorite things about Bilbao, or what questions do you have? Let me know!
-Cathy
Originally Published on November 4, 2019.
Leave a Reply